Every year, we try and get out of couple of late season epics.
Our last mission of the season in 2009 was to an un-named peak we named the Gnarwall. We named it such due to its huge face, constant exposure, mandatory airs, its location 10miles deep into NFS Wilderness, and other factors. The trip was a "failure". We got out there, only to find on the day we were to ski it, shitty weather kept the snow frozen, and wouldn't allow us to ski the face.
Overall, a fun trip to a beautiful area. But any time you aren't able to accomplish your set goals, its always a bit of a let down.
So fast forwarding to THIS season... We had two new projects. Both were big and bold and promised to be a lot of fun.
First up, we would be going down into the Sangres to ski the Crestone Needle, and Crestone Face, among other things in the area. The Sangres are a souther mountain range which explode up from the valley floor. A very cool area with some great vertical. It was a a 3 day trip and the weather was supposed to be good, but not great.
We were able to cut a large part of the 8 mile approach out by using sleds. This left us with a short skin into the basin where we would set up base camp. From here, we would be going over a ridge each morning into the next basin to ski big peaks.
Looking up at Crestone Needle from our campsite.
The next morning, we woke up to a blizzard. It had snowed almost 6 inches in 3 hours. Since we were up, and there, we decided to head out and see where we could get. The snow was blinding, the skin track from the day before us gone, and the snow snow unstable on the old crust.
We decided it best to turn around and re-evaluate once it was light. We were below some serious hang fire, and didn't want to be caught off guard by a slide coming from above us in the dark. After turning around and skinning back to the tent, not 15 minuets later we hear a giant rumble as a large slide ran high in the valley. We were smart, as daylight revealed it had run down a large chute and over our skin-track.
Over the next 24 hours we didn't move from the tent much. It was a full on blizzard, with lots of snow, high winds, and zero visibility. I moved from the tent 3 times that day. I also read over 400 pages in a book I had brought along.
Here you can see my distress.
Those 3 times I got out of the tent, it was most often to clean off the tent. It was snowing over an inch an hour, and my 3 season did an admirable job in the conditions. Still, its not a winter tent, and if we had left it alone all day it would have likely collapsed.
Sometime mid day, only a couple hours after the last time we did it.
After what seemed like forever, the storm slowly died down Sunday. However, it had just snowed 2ft, on top of a very firm layer, during a wind event. It really wasn't safe to go anywhere. The snow was very moist when it fell, so it was initially bonding well to the old layer, but there was a heavy consolidated slab on new snow now, it would have only took a skiers weight to make it active.
As a result, before leaving, we skinned around a little bit in the valley to take in the sights, and stretch our legs, but didn't feel comfortable getting on anything big. There were no safe ways to access high places, and on the down, most terrain was very bottled up, meaning escape would be hard if anything did run.
We did however get to ski some very nice snow in some pretty cool terrain on our way out the drainage.
It was a mellow sled ride out, and we were in no particular hurry. The only short setback was trying to find a way to cross the river. On our way in there had been a snow bridge, but that had collapsed. We looked for another way across, but to no avail.
This left us with one option. Luckily no oxen died while fording the river.
Overall, it was another good trip without ultimate success. We know the area well now, and will be ready to go back next season. This time I can only hope for no blizzard. I'm also very excited to go back to the area this summer and do some mountaineering, as there are some beautiful classic lines in the area.
Finally, our last big trip of the season.
Since our first hadn't worked out, we were especially motivated and feeling strong. The Aspen area was supposed to have a good weather window, and so we headed to where the beer flows like wine... a little place called Assspen
An interesting little mix to listen to while reading...
Anyways, we were going with the goal of skiing Capital. Capital is one of 54 14k foot peaks in Colorado. It is known for being the biggest, and baddest, having only been skied a handful of times. We were stoked and scared.
We were going to do it over 2 days. Day 1 was to inspect and ascertain the feasibility of skiing it, and day 2 would be for doing it. Nervous is an understatement.
Heading up into the basin. We had skinned in 6 or 7 miles the night before, many of those in the dark under a full moon. Very surreal. We still had a ways to go however.
The next morning, getting an early start
Gaining elevation up into the upper valley
We would set up camp here for the next few days
After a setting up camp, some breakfast, and a little break, we headed up even further in the valley to get a view of Capital itself.
Eventually we came to this notch. From here we would be able to drop down into the next basin over and attack Capital from head on, otherwise, you would be required to hike out even more of a very long, dangerous, and thin ridge that eventually you need to ascend to reach the peak. Dropping over and in saves time, energy, and exposure.
We got up on this sub ridge to finally have a look at it.
The third step down on the ridge (closer to us) you can see is where you climb up and onto the ridge from the basin. Steep, exposed, and scary. But we were ready. We skied back town to camp for an early dinner and sleep. The turns were surprisingly good, and I harvested them as best I could.
That night, a huge wind storm rolled in. I spent most of the night awake, as the tent was being assaulted by winds later reported at up to 75mph. At 2 in the morning, it was time to get up, and start skiing. We didn't feel very good about getting onto the upper ridge, due to the wind, but there was no way we weren't going to try.
The moon was full and bright.
But clouds would be blown in, and the moon would become non-existent at times.
We reached the notch again, but this time to winds that were blowing so hard we could barely stand. Blinded by large crystals of consolidated snow, we had to feel our way down the other side completely with our eyes almost closed. It was miserable.
Getting down the other side, we effectively decided against going up onto the main ridge of Capital. There was no way it would be safe, and neither of us wanted to take such a risk. The wind required our total concentration to move, which meant we wouldn't be able to focus on climbing, or anything else. And in a place where focus is key, that was unacceptable.
So we built a snow cave and waited for dawn to arrive.
We needed to wait for dawn simply so that on the climb back out, we could wear goggles to see what we were doing, and where we were going. The wind was blowing that hard.
Sunrise yielded some beauty.
Looking up at Capital. We built our cave in the side of that round nob below.
Over at Snowmass
And back twords Aspen
We climbed back over, and down to camp. Took a nap, ate a little food, drank a little Red Bull, and got ready for the hike out. We would do it in one go this time, as we would be able to ski about half the way out, making it much quicker.
Down low the weather was much nicer, which made it even more difficult to deal with another defeat, but those are the breaks.
I got a little gnar on the ski out.
Eventually we reached the end of the snow and had to walk the rest of the way. Steep and rocky terrain with heavy packs lead to a painful hike out, and it was good to get back to the truck.
Only to find I had forgotten to leave a pair of fresh boxers to change into. I was stuck wearing what I had been for the last 4 days. Ew.
Again, another great trip, but without the results to show for it. We are now 0-3. Next season we will be going back to hit all of these peaks up again, and hopefully next time around with a little more success. I found myself thinking about how you cant always get it on the first try, or it makes it so much less exciting when you do. So really, Im ok with the way things happened. But only as long as I'm able to ski them next time.
Regardless, great trips with a lot of fun. Got to see some very cool areas I had never been to before, and now I already know what Ill be dreaming about over summer.
Its snowing in CB again, and Im ready to go ski some pow!








